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Books

Saris: An Illustrated Guide to
the Indian Art of Draping

The Mul sari (Gond-related family)

Mul is a village of Eastern Maharashtra, in what was once the Gond kingdom. Many castes of that village have adopted a short and simple drape that is very practical to work in the fields. It requires a 9 yd sari, which is easy to find all over Maharashtra and is still very commonly worn (in the Marwari style, see p. 61) in the nearby city of Nagpur. (This photo of a Mul sari is NOT included in the book.)
Fold the sari in two lengthwise and make a knot at the corner of the fold and the upper border.
(LEFT:)
Throw the pallav and the mundi together to the back, over the left shoulder. Leave just enough folded cloth in front to make the closing: pass both layers of the upper border across the chest from the left shoulder to under the right arm.
 
Pass them around the waistline clockwise (in the back, under the left arm, across the abdomen). Tuck the knot in both upper borders that already pass under the right arm (coming from the shoulder and going to the back).

(RIGHT):
Pass the upper borders falling from the left shoulder over the head. Bring the pallav and mundi from over the head to the front, going under the right arm. Tuck their upper borders in the closing, on the abdomen. If necessary, make some small pleats with the upper borders so that the cloth doesn't fall too much under the right arm (but first make sure it covers the head).

(LEFT:)
Pleat the height of the pallav and tuck it in the closing over the abdomen.

(RIGHT):
Take the lower corner of the mundi, pass it between the legs while pushing the cloth falling in the back forward and up, just as with a kaccha sari. Tuck the corner in the closing, in the middle of the back
 
This sari, once it is fully draped, should not fall very low on the legs, just to under the knees.

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